This keeps the product from drying, which would presumably stop it from doing its job. The gel formula helps keep it in place, but the instructions recommend painting it on about 1/8th-inch thick and then covering it with plastic wrap (we used some old plastic packing material to cover it). Why? Well, basically, it works, even on the heavier rust and pitting. This rust-remover gel from Blaster, the same company that makes PB Blaster penetrating lubricant, is probably our favorite of the professional rust treatments we tried. ![]() Because of all the possible health concerns and potential damage to other surfaces in the shop, we give it a 1.5 out of 10 on our scale of usefulness and would avoid it in most cases. But it does remove surface rust from iron in a pinch. Citric, phosphoric, or acetic acid (vinegar) are much safer than HCL. As a result, we are pretty hesitant to use it at all, and you really need to dilute it with water (remember: always add acid to water, never the other way around!) and neutralize it with baking soda. HCL can also damage paint, plastic, rubber, concrete, and even dissolve some iron-based metals if left exposed for too long-even the fumes can cause other metals or surfaces to corrode. Hydrochloric acid works on iron rust, but it's also dangerous and can cause burns on clothes, skin, and elsewhere, and also can cause certain gasses to form, some of which can burn or kill you. ![]() Pool acid is called muriatic acid, but the truth is, it's your old enemy from Chemistry 101, hydrochloric acid (remember all those darned chemical equations you had to balance?). One important note before we begin: Don't forget to wear eye protection and rubber gloves, as well as shop clothes, when dealing with any of these products they can all hurt you inside and out, so be safe. Recently, we needed to stop a bunch of surface rust on the hood of a 1974 CJ-5 we own, and thought this might be a good place to do some unscientific tests of what works and what doesn't. Over the past 20 years in the off-road industry, and more than 35 as an off-road enthusiast, we've dabbled with various techniques for killing rust, which is the only way to prevent its continued growth. Rusting or oxidation is defined as a chemical reaction in which electrons are lost, and while that's a pretty stuffy, chemistry-based definition, it is relevant to stopping rust from destroying our vehicles basically we want to stop or slow the loss of electrons from the steel either chemically (via rust-remover) or physically (by grinding it off and/or sealing it with paint or other sealer). ![]() Afghanistan, Africa, Albania, American Samoa, Andorra, Anguilla, Antigua and Barbuda, Armenia, Aruba, Azerbaijan Republic, Bahamas, Bahrain, Bangladesh, Barbados, Belarus, Belize, Bhutan, Bosnia and Herzegovina, British Virgin Islands, Brunei Darussalam, Cambodia, Cayman Islands, China, Cook Islands, Costa Rica, Dominica, Dominican Republic, El Salvador, Fiji, French Polynesia, Georgia, Gibraltar, Grenada, Guadeloupe, Guam, Guatemala, Guernsey, Haiti, Honduras, Iceland, India, Indonesia, Iraq, Jamaica, Jersey, Jordan, Kazakhstan, Kiribati, Kuwait, Kyrgyzstan, Laos, Lebanon, Liechtenstein, Macau, Macedonia, Malaysia, Maldives, Malta, Marshall Islands, Martinique, Micronesia, Moldova, Mongolia, Montenegro, Montserrat, Nauru, Nepal, Netherlands Antilles, New Caledonia, Nicaragua, Niue, North America, Oman, Pakistan, Palau, Panama, Papua New Guinea, Philippines, Russian Federation, Saint Kitts-Nevis, Saint Lucia, Saint Vincent and the Grenadines, San Marino, Solomon Islands, South America, Sri Lanka, Svalbard and Jan Mayen, Taiwan, Tajikistan, Thailand, Tonga, Trinidad and Tobago, Turkmenistan, Turks and Caicos Islands, Tuvalu, Ukraine, United Arab Emirates, Uzbekistan, Vanuatu, Vatican City State, Vietnam, Virgin Islands (U.S.Rust, often considered the cancer of the automotive world, is the enemy of anyone who loves cars, trucks, or any items mainly constructed of steel or iron.
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